need fairleads for 1940 Collegiate

[Victor Briley]

I am restoring a 1940 Collegiate and need to find a source for control cable fairleads. The fairleads are .550 in diameter and 1" long. I have checked all the traditional sources and they all have Piper cub fairleads that are .750" in diameter. Does anyone have a source for Porterfield fairleads?

[Andy Gelston]

Well there you go!  One of the traps we should all try to avoid in restoring these old gals is perpetuating mistakes and cobble-jobs that were done to them in the past.  I’ve seen felt washers on a lot of Shinn wheels and my own Collegiate has them too...all placed in error.  They do help keep dirt our of the bearings, though...

[Victor Briley]

Shinn-%20Firestone%20brake%20detail%20breakout%20IPC%20%281%29.pdf

This is the note that Laurie at Classic Aero sent me. She is very knowledgeable on Shinn wheels and brakes.

[e-mail]	Oct 15, 2020, 4:56 PM (15 hours ago)
to VBriley0891

Hi Vic,

 

Here is the exploded parts diagram for the Shinn mechanical brakes. There are no felt seals, just a flash seal; L-shaped ring and washer. 

If that is what you need, I will have to see what we have in the way of parts.

 

Laurie

Classic Aero

480-650-0883

[Andy Gelston]

Wheel bearings (Shinn) do have felt seals between two seal washers, against the outboard side of each wheel bearing.  I’m not sure where to get them, though...

[Andy Gelston]

The only AD on the Collegiate is for installing the head knockers (aileron counterweights): something that is only required on CP-50’s that were re-engined with A65’s without upgrading the wing & aileron structures, but all Collegiates ended up being required to have them (probably by the same pencil-necked bureaucrat who required the seaplane Collegiate to have an auxiliary fin, even though the flight tests proved the plane flew better without one).

Struts: there is no requirement to punch test them, but if there is bubbled paint or if rapping on them sounds pretty dull so internal corrosion is suspected to be present, pull the forks and see what comes out.  Use tube sea, boiled linseed oil, or Boeshied to treat the inside of the tubes.  There was no greedy bean counter, scamming to sell new struts, at Rankin Airport to put out an AD on Porterfield struts, like at Taylorcraft and Piper.  I DO recommend sending the forks out for Magnaflux testing.

[Victor Briley]

The IA i am working with wants to know if there are any AD's on the wing struts. He said I should have my struts punch tested. What do you think? Also, are the wheel bearings supposed to have felt seals? There were none on mine but it was a total basket case. It seems like there should be something other than the metal shield to keep dirt & water out.

[Victor Briley]

The IA i am working with wants to know if there are any AD's on the wing struts. He said I should have my struts punch tested. What do you think? Also, are the wheel bearings supposed to have felt seals? There were none on mine but it was a total basket case. It seems like there should be something other than the metal shield to keep dirt & water out.

[Andy Gelston]

Does your bird still have her original Shinn wheels & brakes, Victor?  Club member Tim Talen may have some.

Sure, have Mike call or email me: he has my contact info.

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Well played, Bill: donating Sitka to our future!

[Victor Briley]

I am looking for a wheel seal/shield for my 1940 Collegiate. Anyone know where I can get one? I am only missing one.

[Bill Skinner]

Just FYI. The box of spruce rib materials I had (mentioned in this thread) has been donated to a local EAA chapter. They hold classes and youth demos for homebuilders and will use this material in those classes and to complete a static display they have in the works.

[Victor Briley]

Thanks for the input, Andy. This is all new to me so it is clear as mud. I'll see if I can get some help from the AP/IA that is working with me on this and I'll show him your comment. Maybe between all of us I get it figured out. BTW, I am using Superflite materials if that makes any difference.